![]() ![]() I agree with Mark said as according to Steve Zaloga Tamiya XF-62 is a good match for US WWII OD. Seems complicated but it's really not it is however a learnig curve.one you'll get better at with practice. This does not mean you can't do it and be realistic of course, it's your model and should be finished as you see fit. Mostly I don't do it especially with WW II armor since the average life of an AFV at the time was six weeks and the did not have time to get old looking before they were blown up. I usually use acrylics these days for most things but you'll want to use enamels or oils for pinwash and filters to avoid the surface tension and swift drying properties that acrylis have, neither of which will be your friends during these procedures since you'll want some working time then.Ĭhipping seems to be all the rage these days. Depending on the subject sometimes I'll use a semi gloss for the final sealing coat.īe sure to let everything completely dry between layers. Once all that's dry, then a clear flatcoat to kill the gloss after which it's dirt and dust time. Apply these with a brush and do not flood the surface. Some guys use filters at this stage which are nothing more than an 80-20 or so mixture of thinner to paint, I'll do this sometimes to reduce harsh contrast and blend everything together. Apply decals when dry, then a pinwash when decals are dry. Model Masters acrylic clear gloss is great if you can find it. Be careful to not overdo this.Īfter this my usual order of operations is to seal the whole thing with an acrylic gloss that's durable such as Pledge gloss or whatever they're calling Future these days. You can also drybrush areas that would recieve heavy foot traffic and use a #2 pencil to simulate areas worn down to metal. More on the upward facing surfaces, less on the sides so you can give it an overall shading illusion. Yes, the fading coat should be thinner than your basecoat and airbrushed in thin, translucent coats until you're happy with the results. Test your mix on a small unseen place or something you can paint with the basecoat color so you can evaluate and adjust it. I'd use a mix of plain yellow and white in the basecoat color for a fading coat. ![]()
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